I distinctly remember the previous September being in Milan for the fashion week there. I was at some designer and brand shows and I remember hearing a colleague say the following at the table where we were drinking coffee: “I feel that fashion saw plus size models as a trend and now that fashion has passed we don’t see overweight models anymore” . Of course I was furious that such a thing had been heard and in fact, I remember passionately arguing that such a thing was not the case. That inclusion is now the norm and all designers have models of various proportions in their cast and that’s just not an issue anymore.
I distinctly remembered Paloma Elsesser and some other juicy women plowing many catwalks…. I couldn’t be wrong. And yet!
A little quick research that I did after a while to look at the matter objectively – of course I was intrigued by this colleague’s statement – revealed disappointing data. And the data is what matters in this job, not my own feeling and my own impression.
So let’s look in detail at the runways for Fall/Winter ’24 to see how fake inclusive fashion really is. And how truly inclusive it is today when inclusivity is not a hot topic.
New York Fashion Week
Last year if you remember correctly we talked about the rise of Ozempic use in the US. It was obvious that the impact of this trend along with the return of “heroine chic” and “skinny” largely defined what we saw at NYFW a few months ago.
The curve models in September, on the runways for Spring/Summer ΄24 were 70. And that is a good number. The United States is leading the way in terms of size inclusion on the runways. It was therefore disappointing that the following season the number dropped from 70 to 42 models. There was no representation of men in curve sizes.
The designer who raises the banner of inclusivity season after season is o Christian Siriano. He had six or more girls on his catwalk this season. THE Altuzarra had three plus size models, while o Tommy HilfigerThe CoachThe Willy ChavarriaThe Michael Korsthe Carolina Herrera they all had two plus size models each and everyone else just one.
London Fashion Week
London is always ahead because its scene is completely experimental. With over 50 designers showing in the Fall/Winter ’24 season and an average of 40 looks per show, there were around 2000 runway looks in total. 67 of them were considered curve or plus.
Although the number is higher than that of New York, it remains low. Unfortunately, lower than last season (85 in number).
Milan Fashion Week
With over 64 designers in the AW ’24 season, and an average of 50 looks per show, around 3200 runway looks were made. 13 of them were mid-size and plus-size.
Okay, we didn’t fall from the clouds either. It’s no secret that Milan has never been inclusive and its scene is not for many. Seeing her work Caroline Vitto last season we would certainly have thought it would lure others into the world of inclusivity.
Paris Fashion Week
With over 104 designers in the AW ’24 season, and an average of 48 looks per show, around 4992 runway looks were made. 39 of them were mid-size and plus-size.
The Esther Manas is back with an incredible show featuring sixteen curvy girls. While The Institut Francais De La Mode introduced us to a plus size male model. Our beloved Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood gave Sam Smith space on his runway.
Although Paris is in third place, with 39 curvy models, it’s the only city this season that really increased its size diversity, bringing in 11 more models this season. But what matters more?
The cities with the highest participation rate or the ones making the changes, however small they may seem?
The answer is yours.
Personally, I would suggest focusing on designers and brands that accommodate all bodies. Like the Karoline Vitto, Sinéad O’Dwyer, Ester Manas and Di Petsa.
