City of God (and Pizza)

Three days in Naples equates much more to a socio-political immersion in the Italian south than a leisure trip. The above, of course, can happen with an aperitif in one hand and a slice of Neapolitan pizza in the other. People, horns, noise, garbage, uphills, downhills, infinite shops with salty and sweet street food and – obviously – Maradona. This is the setting in Europe’s largest historical center and at first you are almost paralyzed by information overload and tension. A few history lessons later find you building the profile of the city and its people with completely different raw materials.

Diego didn’t die

And that’s because in Naples it’s everywhere. In large graffiti, in medium graffiti, in small graffiti. In soft drinks, in chips, in balconies, in lighters, in magnets, in T-shirts, in miniatures, in flags and in everything else that the human mind can imagine. Diego made Naples proud and gave it something it hadn’t had until then: recognition. That is why the Neapolitans will always worship him in any possible and improbable way. They’ll have some of his hair on display at Bar Nilo or name a blue cocktail after him. Without exaggeration, the center of Naples is a huge place of worship for the man who, in the 7 years he lived there, managed to leave perhaps the biggest imprint that a personality has ever managed to leave on a city.

Pizza at Pizzeria Laezza

Life forces me to dissuade you from standing in the huge line at L’Antica Pizzeria Da Michele to try the famous pizza that Julia Roberts ate in Eat Pray Love. Not because pizza in general is not worth such a wait, but because this particular pizza is not worth such a wait. On the contrary, the pizza at Pizzeria Laezza should be added to your google maps pins. Tables on the street, music from the kind that is heard in the summer clubs that gather tourists and balls on the wall everywhere! I tried margarita and cacio e pepe, because obviously that’s what I had to do, and it was great company for me and my Peroni. Neapolitan dough has its peculiarities and certainly not everyone likes it. I’m a fan – special of her cornicione (the crust) which is crunchy on the outside and fluffy like a donut on the inside!

Aperitif at Spazio Nea

In piazza Bellini, which has its own beanbag, the best place to hide/rest/hang out (choose the right word depending on how much the city has bothered you) is Spazio Nea. A courtyard with steps to the right and left that have small tables and cushions and an interior space that often hosts exhibitions. Ideal time in the late afternoon for a few spritzes before closing the day in a trattoria.

Bonus Tip: Be sure to go for graffa at Chalet Ciro – Neapolitan fried doughnuts made from flour and potatoes and coated in sugar. They will embrace your soul!