In the shadow of Goula, overlooking the emblematic Kampos of Mantineia

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Every time I return from Agiannakis, there a little after Tripoli, on the right, I notice the beautiful Nestani, formerly known as “Tsipiana”, which spreads out under an impressive and imposing rock, Goula. If someone is in the car with me, we will usually refer to the immigration wave of the 60s and 70s, when most of the villagers left for Chicago.

Suffice it to say that every summer the village comes alive again as entire families come from Chicago to spend their vacations there. The bond with their particular homeland is so great and strong that all the young children, third generation immigrants, learn Greek and grow up with the village of their grandparents as a guide and axis. Most of them, having made fortunes abroad, have repaired the family’s house in the village and consider it their duty to contribute to the development of the settlement and support for the realization of Nestani promotion projects.

“Every summer, a party is set up here in the square almost every day. People who come to the village pay the expenses and so everyone together, have fun, tell stories from the past, even talk about the difficulties they encountered”. This is what one of the people we met a little later on our walk through the village will tell us.

We reach the square of the settlement, where 4-5 plane trees perfectly cover it. Two coffee shops, a pharmacy, the offices of the cultural association, a wood oven and some beautiful and modest houses. “Most of them belong to families that have immigrated to Chicago” our “tour guide”, George Angelopoulos, a very active resident, will tell us. “I remember as a child that every day a family left. Many times they left two or three together. The village was emptying. One took the other with him. The beginning was difficult. Then there was a lot of support and that’s what made a lot of people leave for America and Chicago in particular.” All those who left, however, never forgot the village. It is typical that in the 80s, the bank sent a car with 3 employees to the village square almost three times a week, who converted the dollars into drachmas. It was so much money that this happened for many years.

A little further up, the traditional tavern “Margiolas” serves delicious traditional Arcadian food, handmade pies, great ribs, wild greens and delicious fries. Bruvoblastara is a food, with tuber, a native vegetable of the region, cooked with tomato and olive oil.

Mrs. Amalia at her grocery store in Nestani/Photo: Dimitris Stathopoulos
The central square of the settlement, with the characteristic plane trees/Photo: Dimitris Stathopoulos
Photo: Dimitris Stathopoulos
Photo: Dimitris Stathopoulos

We leave the car near the square and walking through the settlement, we reach Mrs. Amalia’s grocery store. The products are arranged in such a way that they create a beautiful colorful universe. It is this universe of Ms. Amalia, so pure, honest, like the name of the store. He comes from the neighboring village, Saga, but got married here in 1968 and has been living in Nestani ever since. She opened the shop years ago, when her husband, facing some health problems, could not work on the machines, as she tells us. As we speak, some customers are also coming in mainly to buy cigarettes. They also have a little fun with each other. “Otherwise life is not going well. We have to be open with people. Let’s listen to them so that they can then listen to us too” notes Mrs. Amalia and we are left to observe her with how much mastery she has us there and we have opened our hearts.

In the monastery of Gorgoepikou

Before long, I had passed through the settlement again and we went up to the iconic monastery of Panagia Gorgoepikou, which was founded in the 11th century. There, the special frescoes stand out, which are preserved in good condition, while it is said that the icon of the Virgin belongs to the evangelist Luke. But what also cannot go unnoticed is the view of the plain, on the plateau of Mantineia.

The chapel of the Ascension on the hill of Panigiristra, on the Acropolis of Nestani/Photo: Dimitris Stathopoulos

On the hill of Panigiristra

With the guidance of Mr. George, we climb the pine-covered hill opposite the village, to Panigiristra, where we will see the ruins of the acropolis of Ancient Nestani. An imposing wall, two semi-circular towers, and a gate. At the same time, a small church, recently renovated but built in 1930, in memory of a young lady, who used to come here and paint the plain of Mantineia. The girl fell in love with the village doctor, but her family did not allow her to marry him, causing her to become very sad and seriously ill. Then her father built the temple in her honor.

The stone fountain, the “Pera Vrysi” or Philippian Fountain/Photo: Dimitris Stathopoulos
The Primary School, donated by the benefactor Andreas Syggrou/Photo: Dimitris Stathopoulos

In the stone fountain and in the school

On the way down we make a short stop at the stone fountain, with the toponym “Pera Vrysi”. On a built-in slab, we read an ancient liberating inscription. According to Pausanias, Philip II after the battle in Chaeronea in 338 BC. he camped near Nestani, and because of this, the Arcadians gave the spring the name Philippius. We pass outside the school, which in the past was attended by up to 300 students. Today, only the primary school operates, and that with few students. The stone-built building is one of those built with money from the benefactor Andreas Syggrou, in 1912, following specific plans. The work was completed 10 years later. A similar school, but of smaller size, was built in Astros Kynourias.

The Folklore Museum

We head to the center of the settlement, to the building that houses the Folklore Museum, which started its operation almost a year ago. A complete museum, covering all aspects of the daily life of the inhabitants as it developed decades ago. The exhibits, divided into sections, are all in very good condition and the visitor can perceive the way of life in the periods mentioned.

Evangelistria, the central church built in 1840/Photo: Dimitris Stathopoulos

The iconic church

Another emblematic building is the church of Evangelistria, which was built in 1840, according to plans by the well-known architect of the time, Lappa from Nafplio. An important role was played by the lords and chieftains of the Reveliotei and primarily, the general of the Russian army Theodosis Reveliotis (Reveliotov), ​​who sent large sums of money from Russia for its construction and completion. In order to build the huge building for that time, a lot of rare materials were needed. The foundations of the church exceed 5 meters in depth and the thickness of the wall exceeds 1.30 meters. The wood was transported from Tripihi, while the residents worked voluntarily.

The visit to Nestani is completed with a souvlaki in the square and tsipouro. A settlement that has the air of its people. The air of people who have strayed and returning, bring with them, the mood for evolution, for development and creation.

Source: travel.gr

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